With consumer diversity marginalized within the mainstream beauty industry,
Jane Wolfe speaks to some of the brands championing true inclusivity
When you recall the last beauty advert you saw, was it truly representative of the people living in your community? On occasion, women of colour or older models or those who may not fit the archetype of ‘ideal beauty’ are featured, but this often feels like tokenism. It’s clear from these adverts that mainstream beauty still isn’t meeting the needs of the diverse range of consumers, with a diverse range of needs, who make up our society. It’s way past time for the sector to shift perspective and fully embrace inclusivity, not just pay lip service.
“Real inclusivity isn’t just about deepening your product shade range or showcasing diverse models,” says Noelly Michoux, founder and CEO of 4.5.6 Skin. “It’s about genuinely integrating the diverse needs, experiences and stories of your audience into every facet of your brand — from ideation to marketing. It means empathizing with all your potential customers and using that understanding as the foundation for every decision you make. In essence, true inclusivity is rooted in genuine and active empathy. When there’s a shortfall in inclusivity, especially towards women of colour, it often hints at a deeper absence of that very empathy.”
4.5.6 Skin researches, develops, tests and customizes skincare that performs to the unmet needs of people with skin phototypes IV, V and V. “I started 4.5.6 because, like millions of women of colour, I was on this never-ending merry-go-round, splurging on ‘miracle’ products that only fanned the flames of my skin,” Michoux says. “The beauty industry’s exclusion of darker skin in their R&D and testing wasn’t just a disappointment, it was an epiphany and a calling to create a clinical skincare line that truly addressed the specific needs of darker skin phototypes.
The beauty industry’s exclusion of darker skin in their R&D and testing wasn’t just a disappointment, it was an epiphany
“For too long, skin tone has been a mere shadow play of light versus dark. This oversimplification led to myths, wrong assumptions and a glaring research void … Darker skin isn’t just about shade – there are structural and functional differences that need tailored care. It’s high time we champion the unique beauty of darker skin and fill that knowledge and research equity gap.”
Outlining just a few of the differences in skin physiology, Michoux says that skin phototypes IV, V and VI: have a thicker outer layer which affects texture, hydration and nutrient absorption; have a weakened barrier; shed cells faster, resulting in a dull appearance; produce more oil and sebum, leading to acne; are prone to keratosis pilaris, characterized by rough hair follicles, which can cause inflammation and scarring; can be uniquely sensitive, leading to persistent hyperpigmentation; and can experience vitamin D deficiency and impaired skin metabolism due to a lack of sunlight because of inherent UV protection. These nuances, she stresses, need to be legitimized by the beauty industry and factored into the R&D process.
Although Michoux believes some brands are ‘making commendable efforts’, she says there’s a tendency to treat inclusivity as a trend or PR strategy ‘rather than a fundamental shift in operations and values’. “True inclusivity means integrating these practices into the very DNA of a brand and continuously pushing the envelope to be better, more understanding, and genuinely catering to everyone … Brands must move beyond seeing inclusivity as a mere marketing tactic and recognize it as a moral imperative and an authentic approach to serving the entirety of their potential customer base.”
AI bias
AI-driven beauty platform Yuty, founded by Simi Lindgren, uses personalization technology to connect beauty brands and consumers. Motivated by her experience as one of the 86% of beauty consumers struggling to find products that empower them, she set out to resolve the constraints of homogeneous beauty standards and the lack of genetic diversity in the beauty industry.
Despite 60% of beauty consumers conducting online research before making a purchase, consumers still face difficulty with product compatibility, she says, and this disjointed customer experience is a symptom of a deeper issue – the profound lack of equity in the beauty industry. “75% of consumers with melanin-rich tones have expressed their difficulty in finding the right skincare products – a stark disconnect between beauty consumers and brands has gone largely unaddressed,” she says.
75% of consumers with melanin-rich tones have expressed their difficulty in finding the right skincare products
When Lindgren started Yuty, inclusivity was a challenge, partly because AI solutions often have biased training models, unable to accurately recognize individuals with non-Eurocentric features or conditions, leading to a failure to generate inclusive and unbiased recommendations that address each customer’s unique needs and characteristics.
“AI learns to make decisions based on training data, which can reflect social or historical inequity or biases from human decisions,” explains Lindgren. “So, anyone deploying this technology needs to be cognisant of that. When you personalize for everyone, you personalize for no one. Everyone who lives in London isn’t the same, nor is every Gen Z consumer a carbon copy of one another. They’re distinctive individuals with intricate, multi-layered preferences, desires and behaviours — and it’s time to address … them as such.”
Botanical inspiration
Having spotted a gap in the market for skincare for more mature, melanin-rich skin, Apinke Efiong launched EKÓ Botanicals (EKÓ being the Yoruba word for Lagos, where she grew up) in 2022. “I couldn’t find anything that was luxurious, nourishing and high performing and specifically targeted at maturing and darker skin,” she explains.
Having a love of nature inspired by her great grandfather, a botanist who worked at The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, over 100 years ago, her formulas blend the ‘nourishing power of African and British botanical wisdom with modern natural science’. “The products in the range target dryness, hyperpigmentation, dehydration, inflammation and fine lines and wrinkles, common in post-40 skin,” she says. “Using nutrient-dense, premium quality plant oils and botanical extracts, rich in skin loving vitamins and omega fatty acids, such as papaya, tamanu, moringa and Kalahari melon, they cleanse, nourish and revitalize maturing skin.”
For Efiong, inclusivity means creating equal opportunities for everyone regardless of background, colour, age or sex. “EKÓ Botanicals is filling this gap in the market in terms of women and men with maturing or darker skin tones,” she says. “Mainstream beauty has largely ignored this segment of the market, but things are beginning to shift, and we are privileged to be part of this journey of representation.
“There is still a long way to go and there are still huge gaps and opportunities in the UK and globally. Consumers still feel largely ignored by the mainstream beauty brands and a lot of the beauty standards are unrealistic, such as the use of words like ‘antiageing’. At EKÓ Botanicals we encourage pro-ageing and ageing well, focusing on skin nutrition and optimal health, not quick fixes.”
Hair care
In addition to underrepresentation in the skincare arena, The Black Pound Report
2022 found that only 39% of black women say their hair needs are being catered for, and another report, The Texture Gap, has highlighted a glaring disparity in products available for consumers with Type 4 textured hair (Type 4 indicating the tightest curls
or coils).
Launched by Winnie Awa, CEO and founder of Carra, an AI-driven platform dedicated to textured hair, The Texture Gap calls for the recognition of ‘beauty’s forgotten hair texture’ while exposing the obstacles standing between consumers and their hair goals.
“Much has been said about the untapped economic potential of the black or textured hair care market,” says the report. “Yet, despite the growing calls for inclusivity in the beauty industry, Mintel reports 95% of black women would consider switching from their current brand, highlighting the level of dissatisfaction that still exists.”
I hope [the report] helps everyone with tight, rich and luscious coils feel seen, catered for and represented
Type 4 hair needs can’t be met through a one-size-fits-all solution, says the report, as it has a unique texture with a diverse set of features: “The tighter the texture, the higher the likelihood of multiple concerns. 60% of Type 4 have four or more concerns [including dryness, slow growth, breakage and hair loss] compared to 35% of Type 2.”
Commenting on the findings, Awa says: “I hope this report whips up an innovation frenzy, I would like to see a 360-degree change with inclusivity bedded in from the start. From the product ideation, creation and testing process, the supply chain, the campaigns and finally through to the products hitting the shelf. I hope it helps everyone with tight, rich and luscious coils feel seen, catered for and represented.”
Empowering independence
In January, Estée Lauder unveiled its Voice-Enabled Makeup Assistant (VMA), a first-of-its-kind, AI-powered mobile app to help support the visually impaired community – of whom there are over two million in the UK. The VMA distinguishes make-up applied on a user’s face and assesses the uniformity and boundaries of application and coverage, identifying areas that require more accurate application, then audibly describing where touch-ups are needed.
Another initiative for sight-impaired consumers is Hair & Care, created by award-winning hairstylist Anna Cofone. With other volunteer hairstylists, Cofone introduces blind and partially sighted women and girls to the fundamentals of self-care and hair styling with workshops which enable them to come together in a safe environment and gain the knowledge, skills and tools to build self-esteem and increase confidence.
Her understanding of the challenges faced by this community is rooted in her personal experience. “My father was blind, and I vividly remember people often complimenting his appearance; he never left home without a suit and tie, his hair groomed and his shoes always shined. Looking back, I realize that this was his own personal way of helping himself to feel seen. Since his passing, it has been a lifelong goal to use my skills in hairdressing to help empower and inspire people with disabilities, particularly the visually impaired.”
Also requiring a lot more consideration within the beauty realm are consumers with hand-motion disorders resulting from, for example, arthritis, Huntington’s disease or stroke. As part of its mission to ‘make beauty accessible for all’, Lancôme has created HAPTA, a device to assist those who have difficulty with precise application or who find it difficult to get a comfortable angle when applying lipstick or mascara. Ergonomically designed, with an easy-grip handle, when users plug their product into HAPTA, it uses sensors and motion-stabilizing technology to keep it level, counteracting unintentional movements and constantly adjusting to the user’s position.
Another helping hand comes from The Flex Collection by Kohl Kreatives – a set of five easy-grip make-up brushes that bend forwards and backwards enabling users who struggle with motor disabilities to apply make-up in a way that’s comfortable for them. Proceeds from sales go towards Kohl Kares which caters to individuals who are transitioning, as well as those undergoing chemotherapy. It also offers support for conditions such as trichotillomania, alopecia and vitiligo.
Skin sensitivity
People undergoing radiotherapy or chemotherapy for cancer frequently experience painful dry, itchy, red, sensitive, peeling skin and minor rashes, along with skin pigmentation changes and brittle nails. And with the NHS revealing that over 320,000 people received treatment for cancer during the year from November 2021, the highest year on record, there is a real need for suitable natural skincare.
Beauty Despite Cancer was founded by microbiologist Jennifer Young, after her local hospital asked her to create a natural skincare line for patients undergoing treatment, those in remission and those living with cancer. “They asked me because there are a lot of skin conditions associated with cancer, and nobody was doing anything about it,” Young says. Her product line ranges from moisturizers, cleansers and shampoos to bath bombs, sunscreen, soaps and toners as well as solutions for brittle, dry and peeling nails.
Another natural brand offering help to those affected by cancer is MooGoo. It’s Small Oncology Pack features: Skin Milk Udder Cream, which is recommended by several oncologists and nurses nationwide; Fresh Cream Deodorant Sensitive; and Cow Lick Lip Balm.
Coraline, which specializes in skincare for sensitive and troubled skin, was created after the founders’ daughter was born. They found that due to her having Down’s syndrome, her skin was very sensitive and reacted badly to many ‘natural’ products. Its vegan, organic range includes the Miracle Worker – 3-Step Calming Facial Routine which is beneficial for mature and ageing skin, people with rosacea, eczema or psoriasis, and anyone undergoing chemotherapy or radiotherapy.
Face facts
Approximately 95% of people between the ages of 11 to 30 suffer with some form of acne and, according to the British Skin Foundation, over half of those with skin conditions feel judged by others.
Just because you have blemishes on the outside it doesn’t mean you are not beautiful
Earlier this year, TikToker Eva Grant claimed her account was closed due to her cystic acne. “It didn’t fit them because of my skin, because it was gruesome content,” Grant told BBC Radio York. The 16 year-old, who won Miss Teen Galaxy York, started the account to empower other sufferers. “My aim is for people to be aware that non-clear skin is normal. Just because you have blemishes on the outside it doesn’t mean you are not beautiful,” she said. TikTok reinstated the account, claiming it was closed in error, but the incident highlights the need for redefined attitudes towards ‘normal skin’.
To raise awareness and support those suffering with mental health issues, anxiety and bullying because of conditions such as acne, Julia Vearncombe, co-founder of skincare brand Skin:Genius, launched the FaceUp2It campaign last year.
Oscars, love letters and swim caps
Hollywood takeover – this year’s Oscars saw beauty brand UOMA partner with creative agency Pereira O’Dell to paint the Hollywood sign a range of different skin tones to highlight the industry’s continuing lack of diversity. “The Hollywood sign quite literally reflects off the city, so I wanted to make it a true reflection of the city and the diversity that lives here and, in the periphery, the rest of the world that …
is highly influenced by Hollywood,” says UOMA founder Sharon Chuter.
The Beauty Beat – Last December the first UK beauty festival curated for women of colour took place in London to boost representation in the industry. “Over the course of my career, I have produced numerous exquisite events and while we, women of colour, may have been invited and on some occasions included, we have never been the focus,” says The Beauty Beat founder Donna Dia. “I wanted to create an elevated beauty event where we are fully considered … This is my love letter to women of colour.”
SOUL CAP approval – After initially being rejected by Olympic governing body FINA, SOUL CAP – an extra-large swim cap designed for ‘hair blessed with volume’ – has now been officially approved for use in competitive sport after the original decision sparked a public discussion around diversity. “This new approval by FINA is a huge step in the right direction – bringing inclusive swimwear into competitive swimming, and helping to bring down some of the obstacles that are keeping swimmers away from the sport,” says the brand.
PhytoGal (F)ACE treatment moisturizer
Native-Vita
Tel: +386 41442140
E-mail: [email protected]
www.galbaia.com
Experience the magic of nature’s finest with our Multi-Award-Winning product. Give your skin a revitalizing touch and start your day with a joyful boost, feeling refreshed and rejuvenated.
This luxurious, rich, anti-ageing PhytoGal (F)ACE treatment moisturizer with Kakadu plum and silver fir wood extract, with a synergistic blend of other Australian extracts, immortelle hydrosol, aloe vera and noni juice, together with precious plant oils, such as cacay, babassu, pomegranate, cherry and rice bran oils, spread easily, absorbs quickly and leaves no greasy residue, only beautifully smooth, soft, and hydrated skin.
15 ml (Trial / Travel size) and PhytoGal (F)ACE treatment moisturizer 50 ml
Clean Greens Superfood Serum
The Glowcery
www.theglowceryshop.com
At The Glowcery we believe that the products you use on your body should be as healthy and nutritious as the food you put into your body. Drawing inspiration from the nutrition of fresh produce we use upcycled fruit ingredients that would otherwise be discarded by the juicing industry to create efficacious, cruelty free, superfood skincare. Our cult and best selling product is Clean Greens Superfood Serum. A facial oil suitable for all skin types, that brightens hyperpigmentation, prevents acne breakouts, and locks in long-lasting moisture to the skin. Winner, Best Facial Oil 2020 – Women’s Health Beauty Awards.
BAO’s #1 Best Seller – Recovery Face Cream
BAO Skincare
Tel: 07715 489370
E-mail: [email protected]
www.baoskincare.co.uk
When you suffer with irritated reactive skin you want the most calming ingredients on it right? This is why our Recovery Face Cream’s main ingredient is organic Chamomile Water and why it’s our #1 best seller year after year! It completely clears up acne and breakouts whilst calming and soothing any redness. Recovery Face Cream has an incredibly soft light-texture but still deeply moisturises skin leaving it super soft and dewy. Suitable for all skin types as it’s non comegenic and gentle, with Hyaluronic Acid that holds hydration to the skin barrier all day long. The soft scent of Sweet Orange and Frankincense not only leaves your complexion radiant, clear and fresh looking, your mood is uplifted.
Intensive Skin Recovery Cream
Obvs Skincare
Tel: 07415 356451
E-mail: [email protected]
www.obvs-skincare.co.uk
Obvs Skincare, a trusted multi-award-winning brand, specialises in natural and organic solutions for problem skin. Formulated by Sian Louise, their COSMOS Organic & Vegan Society certified Intensive Skin Recovery Cream is ideal for those with eczema, psoriasis, or acne. Their products are sustainably packaged without plastic and have received rave reviews and media coverage. Sian developed these transformative skincare products while undergoing IVF, inspired by her own struggle with hormonal acne. Obvs Skincare proudly leads the way as the first Soil Association Organic & Vegan Society Certified brand to introduce innovative, 100% biodegradable packaging. Experience their plant-based, plastic-free approach today!
Eye Oil
Solo Skin London
Tel: 07500 977536
E-mail: [email protected]
www.soloskinlondon.co.uk
A skincare phenomenon that has captured the admiration of TikTok’s discerning community. Garnering widespread acclaim, this luxurious eye oil has firmly established itself as a staple in beauty regimens. Meticulously formulated with ingredients reminiscent of nature’s finest offerings – including the revitalising essence of kiwi seed oil and the restorative properties of blueberry seed oil – it diligently combats concerns such as under-eye shadows, fine lines, and wrinkles. Elevate your skincare ritual with Solo Skin London Eye Oil, a paragon of efficacy and elegance that has redefined eye care in the modern age.
Lightology, Skin-Esteem, Nightology
Troikin, Dr Amina Skincare
Tel: 07917 135398
E-mail: [email protected]
www.troikin.com
Troikin has been designed especially for Children and Teenagers to enrich healthy skin habits daily to protect from sun damage, oxidative breakdown from pollution and restore the skin barrier whilst avoiding harsh adult ingredients but still packing a punch that separates us from the baby ranges.
Empowering Kids to love their skin with daily application, our packaging is easy to use for smaller hands and our non-spill swivel-cap means no spills.
Innovating with science our SPF comes with a child friendly Vitamin-C concentrate to maximise protection and an Afternoon Serum to top up at school for 24 hour skin love.
